You are the star of this adventure. We shall
explore the secret parts of Siena and you can
tell your friends that you discovered a
fantastic city among the museums, parks,
fountains, games, shows, and ghosts. Ready
to start? One, two, three: GO!!!
Piazza San Francesco
Il campo
Il "ghetto"
Porta pispini -
basilica dei Servi
Orto dei Pecci
Orto dei tolomei
Prato di Sant'Agostino
Porta San Marco
Piazza Duomo
Fontebranda
Basilica di San Domenico
La Fortezza
Fonte Nuova d'Ovile
Piazza San Francesco
Piazza San Francesco
In
front of you is the big church of San Francesco, built
in the 12th century, where Bernardino Albizzeschi became
a Franciscan friar in 1402. He would go on to become the
famous St. Bernardino, and the Oratoryon the right side
of the square is dedicated to him. Follow the itinerary
among the hilly streets of this neighborhood until you
come to the church of Santa Maria in Provenzano, built
at the end of the sixteenth century to house an image of
Our Lady which had brought about miracles. The July Palio
is dedicated to her. Now keep walking until you get to
Vicolo del Castellare, which means alley of the castle,
and go into the historic little square. > castlewas
a kind of fortress, formed by a stone wall with one or
more towers. Be careful, because the spirit of Giovanni
Ugurgieri, who died heroically during the battle of Monteaperti
(1260), still wanders about these walls. Now go down to
the street called Banchi di Sotto. In the Middle Ages this
street was lined with 'banchi' or counters, where merchants
sold their wares and above all, money changers changed
money from one currency to another.
Il campo
If
you walk down the Vicolo dei Pollaioli, which means alley
of the poultry sellers, you come out in the heart of the
city, Piazza del Campo. It is shaped like a large shell,
paved with red bricks and divided into nine sections. It
is called Il Campo, which means the field, because a long
time ago it was a large field where markets, fairs, assemblies,
and festivals were held. Palazzo Pubblico was built at
the end of the 13th century to house the Nine Governors
who were in charge of the Republic of Siena. Inside the
palace is the Civic Museum. I advise you to go in there,
because you will see many art works featuring kings, queens,
ladies, knights, virtues, and monsters. In front of the
palace you see a column holding a She-wolf with the twins
Senius and Aschius, who were the sons of Remus. According
to a famous legend, in the 8th century B.C., the twins
ran away from Rome to escape their cruel uncle Romulus.
They ran and ran, and finally stopped near a river called
Tressa, and built a city. To thank the gods Apollo and
Diana, the twins lit a big fire on the altars. To their
great amazement, the smoke became white and black, the
colors of the coat of arms of the city they had just founded--Siena.
To the left of the Palace is the Torre del Mangia, which
means Tower of the Eater, because the man whose job it
was to ring the bells every hour was nicknamed Mangiaguadagni,
because of his high salary. But there are others who say
he got the name because he spent all his earnings eating
and drinking in the taverns! The tower is 102 meters high.
Are you ready to climb up? Be careful because the 400 steps
are quite steep, but the view you will see from up there
is worth all your effort.
Il "ghetto"
Now
go down Vicolo delle Scotteto reach the ghetto, the area
of the city where the Jews were forced to live starting
in the sixteenth century. No. 14 on Vicolo delle Scotte
is the Synagogue, where Jews gather to read the Holy Scriptures
and to pray. Walk along Vicolo della Fortuna, which means
alley of good luck, and if you want to, you can stop in
the little park to play. Then go on along Via Salicottountil
you get to Piazzetta A. Franchi, where you can admire the
view of the Orto de' Pecci. The square contains the Fontanina
della Torre, the little fountain of the tower, where children
born in the contrada of the Tower are baptized as contrada
members.
Along
Via dei Pispini you will see a Fountain, which
gets its name from the little spouts through which
the water flows into the fountain. These are
called "pispinelli." Over
time the pispinelligave the name also to the
grand city gate 4 called Porta Pispini, built in the middle
of the
thirteenth century. Coming back up the street
from the gate, at no. 164 you will find the Children's
Art Museum.
This is the ideal place to play and learn about
art at the same time, through exhibits, animated tours,
and workshops.
Now go into Piazza Manzoni, where a sweeping
view of the city opens up before your eyes. Can you recognize
some
of the monuments? You are now in front of the
basilica of San Clemente in Santa Maria dei Servi. Inside
it you
can see the painting that the Florentine artist
Coppo di Marcovaldo made in 1261 to regain his freedom.
He had been
taken prisoner by the Sienese in the Battle
of Monteaperti the year before, and since he did not have
the money to
pay his ransom, he painted this picture instead,
and they set him free.
Orto de' pecci
If
you go through the big gate of the former psychiatric hospitaland
go carefully down the dirt path, you come to the Orto de’ Pecci.
Just think how close we are to the Piazza del Campo, and
yet here we are in a green oasis inside the city walls.
Here you can play soccer or watch a fantastic show of 5
falconry. Now go along the steep street in front of you
to the Piazza del Mercato, the Market Square. The Sienese
call the covered pavilion in the middle of the square the "big
turtle, " because its roof looks like a turtle shell.tartaruga.
Orti dei tolomei
Now
you are on Via G. Dupré. Along this street, on March
19, which is Father's Day in Italy, the contrada of the
Wave celebrates Saint Joseph, who was Jesus' earthly father.
Stands up and down the street sell rice fritters, toys,
and the traditional little carts with the colors of the
contrada. Go under the Arco di San Giuseppe, Saint Joseph's
Arch, and walk along towards the Orti dei Tolomei. Here
you can play for a while, taking advantage of the nice
grass. Did you notice a big sculpture in the middle of
the olive trees? The artist who made it called it "The
Drop," but the Sienese call it The Pearbecause of
its shape.
Prato di Sant'agostino
Now
come out on Via P.A. Mattioliand walk uphill for a short
stretch. On your left you will come to the entrance to
the Orto Botanico, the Botanical Garden, where there are
lots of special plants, such the "living stones",
made up of two fat leaves camouflaged to resemble rocks.
The garden has a ghost that wanders through the valley
at night. His name is Giomo, who died heroically in battle
in 1207. But there are lots more things to discover! If
you like minerals, fossils, insects, and birds, and want
to see a two-headed calf and other stuffed animals, then
go into the Accademia dei Fisiocritici(a little father
along after the Botanical Garden) and you will see how
your grandfathers' grandfathers studied. A whale skeleton
will welcome you to the museum! Now you are at the Prato
di Sant'Agostino, which means Saint Augustine’s Meadow,
where there are benches, swings, and a splendid view over
the city. Before continuing on our course, you can go on
a treasure hunt inside the church of Sant'Agostino. You
can have fun discovering the art works, artists, saints
and mysterious relics inside this great church.
Porta San Marco
Now
walk along Via delle Cerchia, which means Street of the
Hoops. At no. 15, you can see a marble head of Giomo (remember
who he was?). Stop in front of the church of Santa Luciaand
imagine that it is the middle of the winter, on December
13th, when Siena celebrates the feast day of the saint
who protects eyes. These streets fill up with children
and stands selling little bells with the colors of the
Contradas. Now go down Via delle Sperandie, where you can
pretend to be explorers. If you go along the little path
on your left at the end of the street, and look among the
trees, you will discover an ancient fountain that only
the most daring explorers know about. It is called the
Nuns' Fountain, because the nuns used to wash their clothes
there. Now keep going towards Porta San Marco, Saint Mark's
Gate. Along this street you may run into painters and young
artists who are painting the beautiful Sienese countryside
unfolding before your eyes. Do you want to try your hand
at it too? Here we are at Porta San Marco, built in the
thirteenth century. Siena still preserves today the ancient
gates and walls (some almost thirty feet high!)1 that defended
the city from enemy attacks.
Pizza duomo
Now
walk along Via San Marcountil you get to a wide space called
the Pian dei Mantellini, which means plain of the little
cloaks. It has this name because the monks in the church
of San Niccolo' al Carminehere wore short cloaks. Now go
on along the Via del Fosso di Sant’Ansano, a quiet
street with a splendid view over the valley below. In this
area, according to legend, a pot of boiling oil was prepared
in order to kill Ansanus, but when he was put in the oil,
it miraculously stopped boiling. Ansanus is now the patron
saint of Siena. Now go up the steep dark street called
Vicolo di San Girolamo, or St Jerome's alley, and you will
come out in the cathedral square, called Piazza Duomoin
Italian. The Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was
built starting in the 12th century. It is completely covered
with marble and decorated with statutes of kings, prophets,
Sibyls, and a few monsters. Inside, even its floor is a
great work of art! It looks like a great puzzle made up
of pieces of colored marble. In front of the cathedral
is the hospital of Santa Maria della Scala. The ancient
building, built starting in the eleventh century, has now
been transformed into a vast museum. You can see where
pilgrims were taken in during the Middle Ages, how the
sick were treated, and you can go down into the secret
labyrinths dug out of the tufa rock, where excavated Etruscan
and Roman materials are now preserved. Try to find the
place where Saint Catherine used to spend the night after
taking care of plague victims all 9 day. Here’s a
hint: there is a skull right by it! When you get to Piazza
Jacopo della Quercia, you will wonder what is that strange
structure that is so big and impressive. The Sienese call
it the Facciatone, and it is what would have been the facade
of the new cathedral that the Sienese wanted to build.
But the black plague struck in 1348, killing a large part
of the population, and also the building was showing signs
of stability problems (did you see how big and tall the
pillars are?), so the project was abandoned. Part of the
new structure was incorporated into the Museo dell'Opera,
the Cathedral Museum, which houses Duccio's great masterpiece,
the Maestà. You can also climb up inside the Facciatoneand
take some nice pictures. Are you ready to count the steps?
Fontebranda
Now come down the steps, being very
careful.
Even Saint Catherine slipped on
them, but people say it was because the
devil pushed her.
Did you find the cross
marking the spot where the saint fell?
On your left is the Baptistry, dedicated
to Saint John the Baptist. Inside it is a
baptismal font made by the most
important Italian sculptors of the
Renaissance. Now the time has come when you need your flashlight. To get to
the Vicolo delle Carrozze, the alley of
the carriages, there is a dark
passageway, so be very careful where
you put your feet. Go on down Via di
Diaccetoand look at the splendid view
over the Fontebrandaneighborhood.
The
fountain, one of the most beautiful and
ancient in Siena, was built between the
12th and the 13th centuries. Right in the
little square next to it, you can see the
children of this contrada, the Oca, or the
Goose, practicing the drum or learning to
twirl a flag. Every Contrada, from March
to October, teaches its young people this
art that is handed down from generation
to generation. Follow the sound of the
rolling drums to discover the other
places in the city where these lessons
are given. At Sienartefice, you can watch
many craftspeople at work.
Basilica di San Domenico
Now go up the steps under the rocky
outcropping on which the church of San
Domenicois built. Its a steep climb, but
by now you are in good shape! In the
past, the Vicolo di Caporegiowas a
simple dirt path called Costa del Serpe,
or Snake Alley, probably because there
were snakes among the vegetation.
Now you are in fronj of the Dominican
church, built in the 13th century, full of
artistic masterpieces, where the relic of
the head of Saint Catherine of Siena is
preserved. Continue to the Parco delle
Rimembranze, or Park of Remembrance,
a place where there are other surprises
in store for you: the "labyrinth" of
hedges, the "benches" of water, and if
that's not enough, you can play with the
"
barberi track," the Sienese children's
favorite game. The "barberi" (which also
means "horses") are wooden balls
painted with the colors of the Contradas.
The track is a sculpture by Riccardo
Grazzi, which in the upper section
represents Piazza del Campo and is
made up of a spiral of three rings
corresponding to the three turns around
the square during the Palio horse race.
Do you want to try to play it?
La Fortezza
The sixteenth century fortressis the
ideal place to hide among the bushes,
trees, and fountains. Go now to the park
at La Lizza, where you can walk about
under the trees, sit on the benches, or
play on the bronze horses by Sandro
Chia. In the Lizza fountain you will see
goldfish, ducks, and turtles, but also
Romeo, the royal swan who lives in the
grotto. In the winter, an ice-skating rink
is set up here.
Fonte Nuova d'Ovile
Aross Piazza Gramsciand go down the
steep street called Vallerozzi. Then turn
left on the covered alley called Via del
Lavatoio, being careful of the steps. The
name of this little street means Laundry
Street, and it was used by the women
of the Vallerozzi neighborhood to go
down to the Fonte Nuova d'Ovileto
wash their clothes. The fountain, built at
the end of the 13th century, is
recognizable by its large pointed arches.
Piazza San Francesco
Pass by next to the late fifteenth century
church of San Rocco Confessore, where
there is the little fountain of the She-
Wolf, the Fontanina della Lupa.
Continuing along Via Vallerrozzi, you
come to the thirteenth century Porta
d'Ovile. Then walk on the steep Via del
Comune, one of the most picturesque
streets in Siena, with the houses stacked
next to each other like a staircase, At the
top of this steep climb, you can rest on
the bench in front of the little fountain
of the Caterpillar.
Do you see anything strange about the
building in front of you? Yes, a woman is
looking out the window, and hanging in
front of her is a pomegranate with a
little caterpillar on top of it. This is a
sculpture by Pier Luigi Olla, made for the
Contrada of the Bruco, the Caterpillar.