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| ALFIERE (STANDARD-BEARER) |
Arrigo Pecchioli (journalist, essayist) And the Standard-Bearer is the wonder of the Contrade of Siena, for he mimes a dance of silk, repeats the swordfights of the ancient master defenders of the insignia from the 1600s, raises the flag in the air to the cheers or the jeers of the crowd, drapes his body in it at the end he furls it and turns to hurl it, but with greater violence and boldness, into the sky (1974) Enrico Toti (Standard-Bearer in the Piazza from 1962 to 1975) |
| AMORE (LOVE) |
Piero Bargellini ((writer) Love for one's Contrada does not take away from love for Siena; to the contrary, it makes it stronger. Beyond love for Siena, love for Italy as well. "I love Italy," a distinguished citizen told me with great seriousness, "because I love Siena, because I love my Contrada. The roots of my love reach deeper than do those of any other Italian." (1961) |
| AUTENTICITA' (AUTHENTICITY) |
Giuliano Catoni (historian) The Palio continues to be experienced intensely because it has refused to fall into the pattern of "modern" festivals, all of which are born from the same unfailing original sin: namely, that of having been scripted by the authorities on high. (1982) |
| BANDIERA (FLAG) |
Pope John XXIII Alfredo "Ciappata" Donnini (Standard-Bearer in the Piazza from 1954 to 1962) Giancarlo Galardi (Standard Bearer in the Piazza from 1949-1958) |
| BATTAGLIA (BATTLE) |
Luigi Gianoli (journalist for La Gazzetta dello Sport) They're off. Thus, I believe, do the devils gallop in hell: it's not a race, but a ferocious red-hot battle in the midst of a storm of whiplashes; the sharp curves do not break the flight, but seem to add pique and rancour. (1952) |
| BENEDIZIONE (BLESSING) |
Gaetano Bonicelli Bonicelli (Archbishop of Siena) But how can you be amazed that in Siena the horses are blessed? Perhaps on the Feast of Saint Anthony in all the cities, in all the towns, the cows are not blessed? Maybe the priest never enters the stall, especially in certain rural areas? And in the churches, even the smallest animals are not to be blessed? (1996) Renzo Cassigoli (journalist for L'Unità). |
| CAMPANA (BELL) |
Sandro Scali (journalist for Il Carroccio). The voice of the Sunto bell is great. The sound is that of a bell of war, harsh. The two tones are dark. From far away, only he is heard. After the last chime, the silence is loud. (1992) |
| CARRIERA (THE RACE) |
Augusto Mattioli (journalist for AGI) The only true thing about the Palio is the few seconds of the race, in which reason gives way to instinct. (1998) |
| CAVALLO (HORSE) |
Marguerite Henry (writer) Man seeks to set up everything, but the horse the horse knows only one law: that of winning! This is the most beautiful and most bitter lesson of the Palio. (1960) Paola Fallaci (journalist for Oggi) Umberto Eco (semiotician) Luca Luchini (journalist, essayist) Roberto Morrocchi (journalist) |
| COMPLESSO (A COMPLEX) |
Ezra Pound (poet) And down there they've had their Palio.Let's not descend to this Calvary, said the priest - upon the damnably hard bench awaiting the horses - and the parade and the Carroccio wagon and the game of the flags - the waving of the flags of the Palio - It's not a ontrada, it's a complex - explained an expert to one less expert - making reference to what was left of the guilds or the arts - (1937) |
| CONFEDERAZIONE (CONFEDERATION) |
Giulio Pepi (essayist, journalist) to have a precise vision of Siena, we would do well to make clear that we are dealing not so much with a city as with a confederation of seventeen cities. And this is so true that the territory is divided by boundaries established first by habit and then by a law of the State (1729) which had and which still has full legal value. (1974) |
| CONFINI (BOUNDARIES) |
Walter Tyndale (writer) I had been in Siena for barely an hour when I witnessed a dispute over the question of whether our pensione stood in the Contrada of the Goose or in the Contrada of the Dragon. It was a true enigma, even more so when I realized that the lodgers who had their rooms in the Goose believed themselves much greater than those in the Dragon. |
| CONFLITTO (CONFLICT) |
Federico Fellini (director) You people of Siena have a precious thing, and it's singular how in the conflict between the Contrade there lies your union. All the world is flaking away, but there you are with the aliveness of these rites and with your loyalty to the centuries. I believe you are the only example in Italy. There's a sort of mysterious cord between you and the Sienese of every other age. It's beautiful, very beautiful! (circa 1970) |
| CONTRADA | Piero Misciatelli Misciattelli (essayist) Siena lives for and thanks to its Contrade not only in the days of the Palio, but for the entire year. They perpetuate among the citizens customs and habits that are oustandingly communal. They reaffirm religious and civil ties. (1932) Guido Piovene (essayist) Judith Hook (historian) Daniele Magrini (journalist, essayist)In a world in which interpersonal relationships become ever more difficult, in a society in which myths and certainties fall down one by one, in Siena the Contrada remains. (1986) |
| CORSA (THE RACE) |
Paolo Cesarini (journalist, essayist) Sell out! Come on, come on. Go, go, go. Give it to em. Whip em, get its back straight. Tower, Tower, Torrina Benedetta Santa Caterina give strength to the Goose. God wants you to kill him at Saint Martin's Corner. Hold tight, hold tight damn it. Come on, go, whip em. Pass him, pass him. Sell-out assassin, he's holding back, look how he's holding back. Saint Antonio, do a grace and break the legs of the Snail. Great Giraffe. Mamma, mamma, it's the Forest, the Little Forest, the Great Forest. They're closing in on him, they're closing in on him; cowards, they threw him against the mattresses. The Shell is coming back, go Shell, you're in first, go Shell, keep them behind you with the whip, take it wide, stay on top, keep with it, keep with it, now come on. Madonnina protect him. Oh God he's going down, Oh God he's falling. Sell out. He threw himself off, he threw himself off the horse. I'll kill him. (1960) Manuela Audisio (journalist for LaRepubblica) Jean Pierre Clerc (journalist for Le Monde) Duccio Balestracci Balestracci (historian) Vincenzo Tessandori (journalist for La Stampa) |
| DANARO (MONEY) |
Beatrice Schlag (journalist for Sports) Where, outside of Siena, does a race exist in which hundreds of thousands of marks change hands while nothing is earned except honor? and where else, at the end of the day, can one lose a race in which one hasn't even participated? It's the toughest race in the world. (1987) |
| DONNA (WOMAN) |
Simonetta Losi (journalist for Il Carroccio) Women within the Contrada: The other side of the flag. A different color, indispensable, which, stitched to the male component, forms a unique whole. Passion for the Contrada, visceral, has no gender. What's special, if anything, is the solicitousness for "our men" when they become protagonists of the ritual. Women in the background only for the Palio as a metaphor for war: always more present in the Palio and in the Contrada as a metaphor for life, even in managerial roles. Maria Pia Corbelli (journalist for La voce del Campo) Maria Grazia Testi Botteghi (Prior of the Porcupine Contrada from 1990 to 1992) Sonia Corsi (journalist for Il Nuovo Campo) |
| DOPOPALIO (AFTER THE PALIO) |
Guido Parigi (journalist for Il Nuovo Campo) The Palio was getting close. In a long meeting my collaborators explained to me what was to be done and to whom the various facets of the four-day kirmess should be assigned. As for the after-Palio interviews, "No problem. I'll take care of them," Carlo Fontani said with certainty. He wasn't worried. The good Fontani was an excellent, seasoned, trusted journalist. But his Contrada won, and it was only a week later that I saw him. The interviews were never written. (1998) |
| DRAPPELLONE (THE GREAT BANNER) |
Renato Guttuso (painter of the Palio of August 1971)
In my opinion it is a classic popular picture, that is, made for the people, like the paintings on the wagons in my native Sicily: rest assured, I will do everything in the right way, but I'll take old habits away from people. Corrado Cagli (painter of the Palio of August 1972)The Palio either in some ways becomes a painting, a representation of life, if only in allegorical form, or it becomes a kind of tapestry, an abstract and geometrical composition of symbols and references consecrated by tradition. Cesare Olmastroni (painter of the Palio of July 1982) |
| FANTINO (JOCKEY) |
Aldo Mantovani (jockey) For this Piazza you need three things: heart, liver [meaning, "courage"], and hocks. (circa 1930 Bino Sanminiatelli (writer) Paolo Maccherini Maccherini (journalist for the RAI) |
| FAZIOSITA' (SECTARIANISM) |
Joseph Forsyth (educator) The strongest tie between Italians is the coming together of hatred. Never had the Tuscans been unanimous except to hate the other Italian states; the Sienese always agreed with each other when it came to hating the other Tuscans; the citizens of Siena the Sienese provincials; and in the same city the same passion has found a way to split itself up among the various Contrade. (1802) Giorgio Batini (journalist La Nazione) |
| FAZZOLETTO | Claude Lévi Strauss (anthropologist) The neckerchief is the personal flag of the Sienese. (1977) |
| FOTOGRAFIA (PHOTOGRAPHY) |
Luca Betti (publisher) There are many beautiful photos to be seen of the Palio Almost none, however, helps us understand the true essence of the festival, almost as if one were to photograph a flower and expect to smell its fragrance. |
| FUOCO (FIRE) |
Gianni Brera (journalist, essayist) Guardians of a dream realized from the fire on the hill that chose for itself a different maternal she-wolf, thus do the Sienese share hate and love like bread and bile. Meanwhile our blind Mistress history makes us run the Palio among Contrade ever more hostile and far apart. (1969) |
| GARA (COMPETITION) |
Leonardo Olmi (photojournalist for Playboy) A competition that is unique in the world and unrepeatable in any other place or city that isnt the ring of tuff earth around the shell of Sienas Piazza del Campo. (1998) |
| GIOCOSITA' (PLAYFULNESS) |
Emilio Giannelli (designer) The Palio today has been somewhat dramatized, especially by the young generation. Today friendy teasing is mistaken for provocation and often gives rise to violence. In my opinion everything should be steered back to the playfulness which little by little, in time, has disappeared. (1996) |
| GIORNALISTI (JOURNALISTS) |
Aligi Cioni (journalist for ANSA) The Sienese are, on average, cultured, touchy, ironical. Journalists (non-Sienese, I mean) leave them neither hot nor cold; they are "foreigners." Let them fend for themselves. No red carpets and, thus, the rule for everyone is: You want to report on the Palio? Try to understand it, do your homework, study. Come before it begins, sniff the air of the festival in the Contrade" Then, maybe, you might manage to report on it, the great race, the drums, the procession, the colors, the continuous cry that goes with the three long, long laps around the Piazza del Campo. (1998) |
| GIUSTIZIA (PALIO JUSTICE) |
Gianni Roggini (journalist) It's rare for measures decided upon by the Municipality concerning the Contrade and the jockeys to be accepted calmly. But it's rarer still for someone to get the idea of taking the problem elsewhere, for example by appealing to the TAR [Regional Administrative Court]. The great majority of Contrada members think that suffering a possible injustice at the hands of the Municipality of Siena is always better than receiving questionable justice from the Florentine courts. (1998) |
| GUERRA (WAR) |
Tonino Virone (journalist Testimonianze) In 1946 J. Huizinga in his Homo ludens expressed a quantity of facts so weighty as to make one take into serious consideration the notion that play and not work was the primary deciding element in human cultural background.... And it is exactly this that happens between the Contrade throughout the year and during the days of the Palio. They "simulate" war and, by so doing, in reality achieve social peace. (1990) |
| IMMAGINAZIONE (IMAGINATION) |
Omar Calabrese (semiologist) "One often arrives in Siena with the spirit of the ethnologist who comes to study, without wanting to admit it, a primitive people, a population of wild men, a people of anachronistic fanatics. And then one finds oneself caught up instead in an extraordinary adventure of the imagination." (1986) Enrico Campana (journalist for La Gazzetta dello Sport) |
| LIBERTA' (FREEDOM) |
Titus Burckhardt (historian) The Palio is the ultimate manifestation of the history of a proud, free city. |
| A. LORENZETTI | Heinz Joachim Fischer (journalist for Frankfurter Allegemeine) Palio, the Campo, and the festival seem in the end to conform to the spirit of Ambrogio Lorenzetti The impressive scenes in the city and in the country, the allegorical figures, the churches and the palaces; everything follows the moral instruction, and indeed the principle expressed through works of art, that, for the good of the whole, private interest must be subordinated to the common interest. In the Palio this goal is pursued by the citizens themselves. (1990) |
| MADONNA | Mino Maccari (painter of the Palio of August 1970) "But the Madonna, how shall I do her? I've painted only women who are cheerful and covered with makeup. Perhaps I'll paint her like an angel at the last moment!" |
| MAGIA (MAGIC) |
Massimo Bilorsi (journalist, essayist) In Siena, magic is quick to meet the Palio, a vital expression that allows neither hint nor reply, through formulas and rites that mark living side-by-side with the past, with comparisons. There's always someone who, to exorcise fate, lets himself be taken to secret places, drinks wine that's about to go off, only to be led then to the woods by a witch who seduces him. (1991) |
| MILANO (MILAN) |
Anna Mosca (writer) Yet if, for example, we wished to recommend this recipe for peace in Milan, dividing that great city into so many sectors to turn its neighborhoods into good families in the style of Siena, the thing wouldn't work. The Palio would be missing. It would be missing. The spiritual hyperbole of the Sienese people (1967) |
| MISTERO (MISTERY) |
Roderick Conway Morris (journalist, International Herald Tribune) What makes the Palio so gripping is the element of mystery that it hides, a mystery that perhaps not even the most thoughtful of the Sienese might ever explain completely. The Palio is man-made, it is a work of art, but a work made by many hands through many generations, each of which has added something, though the greater part of the contributions remains anonymous. And the ability of the Palio to adapt to changing times has been astonishing. (1998) |
| MONTAPERTI | Idilio dell'Era (essayist) For the Palio is nothing but a symbolic race through the history of one of the proudest republics that Italy ever had, a phantasmagorical flight of noise and costumes to rediscover youth, rich in art and faith, in enthusiasm and devotion anchored to the banks of the Arbia: at the end of the day it is nothing other than a spectacle of thanksgiving to the Madonna for the victory won over the Florentines at Montaperti on 4 September 1260. (1960) |
| MORTARETTO (THE LITTLE CANNON) |
Alfredo Bonaccorsi (musicologist) The chimes stop at the beginning of the race when the Little Cannon explodes violently, filling the Piazza and all adjacent streets with echoes; afterwards there lingers an indistinct buzzing which, after so much clamor, gives the idea of silence, of a silence inundated by vibrations of anxiety, of dismay, stretching out towards the race (1928) |
| MORTE (DEATH) |
Eugenio Montale (poet) The stands groan when the dilapidated horses pass by, greeted by a single cry. It's a flight! And you forget. Forget death. (1939) |
| MOSSA (THE START) |
Sergio Profeti Profeti (journalist, essayist) But the most illogical aspect of the illogical race is demonstrated in the Start. The Start assumes a diabolical meaning in the Palio, an altogether particular charm. Only the passage of time knows how to create a spectacle within the spectacle, an illogic within the illogical. (1985) |
| MUSEO DI CONTRADA (CONTRADA MUSEUM) |
Mauro Civai (Director of the Civic Museum of Siena) Siena boasts a national record for the number of museums found within its territory, thanks above all to the exceptional series of historic seats of the Contrade. The Contrada museum is very modern, where the memory of every aspect of the life of the Sienese "city state"is rigorously, yet affectionately, preserved and documented. (1998) |
| NERBATA (WHIPLASHES) |
Momo Giovannelli (vernacular poet) But leave things as they used to be! / When there was less sentiment / but also less fiction and hypocrisy / By giving heed to the dandies / We'd run the Palio on compliments: / "Me, pass? But what are you saying? After you!!" (1968) |
| NOSTALGIA | Geno Pampaloni (writter) Religious devotion and warlike bravery are the components of the civic spirit, which was the root and the nourishment of the Contrada. The Palio today is the symbolic transposition of all this. The fury of passions which still blazes around the Piazza when there's earth in the Piazza is itself another manifestation of Siena's nostalgia for its past as a free and bold City-State. (1986) |
| OLIMPIADI (THE OLYMPICS) |
Paolo Vagheggi (journalist for La Repubblica))
"The important thing is winning the Palio. Yes, because the Palio is either won or lost. At the Palio, you don't come in second or third. The Palio is the Anti-Olympics. Winning, not participating, is the important thing." |
| PALCAIOLI (OWNERS OF THE STAND) |
E.A.Brigidi (historian) Out come the cries "To the good seats! Here they are! Here they are!" from the owners of the stands who invite the spectators, each boasting his own good position, and packing the crowd in like sardines in a jar. (1875) |
| PALIO | Henry James (writer) The great rumbling magnificent race or animated entertainment, that simulates ferocity even if real ferocity is never reached, that is the annual pride of the city. (1909) Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (writer) Tommaso Landolfi (writer) Giovanni Cecchini (historian) Mario Ismaele Castellano (Archbishop of Siena) Stefano Bisi (jouralist for Il Corriere di Siena) Yoeri Albrecht (journalist for Vrij Nederland) Mario Luzi (poet) |
| PARADOSSO (PARADOX) |
Emilio Ravel (journalist) Whoever might wish to "see" the Palio for real must do so also through the eyes of paradox and mystery. Otherwise the essence and the deepest heartbeat are lost. (1997) |
| POPOLO (THE PEOPLE) |
Giuseppe La Farina (man of letters) In Siena the people are not, as in almost all other parts of Italy, spectators of the festival; rather they are its leading actors. (1842) Geraldo Righi Parenti (writer) |
| PIAZZA | Augusto Mazzini (architect) From inside the piazza, because of the consistency of its spacial quality, the size of the city appears unknown. It may be immense or indeed non-existent. But above all else behind the Palace, even because of the relationship between that building and the sky, one senses the expanse of a great emptiness. The country is perceived as a vacuum, to which the city, with its Palace, turns its back. (1989) Franco Fortini (poet, essayist) Carlo Nepi (architect) |
| PITTURA (PAINTING) |
Bruno Santi (Superintendent of Artistic and Historical Heritage) How to reconcile the formal dignity, the balance, and the composure of the composition of the paintings of the high Italian Renaissance with the lights and color and movement in the dynamism of Futurism at the beginning of the 1900s? No spectator at the Palio of Siena can help but reconstruct in his memory a vast temporal arc of our country's figurative art, immersing himself in the images offered by the Festival. (1998) |
| PROVE (TRIAL RUNS) |
Senio Sensi (journalist for Il Carroccio) You follow the horse with a mixture of pride, of ostentation, of power, and of service that carries with it some risk. It is only after having marched and battled for your Contrada that you feel you truly belong to it. (1990) |
| RIONE (NEIGHBORHOOD) |
Aldo Lusini (historian) With incense and blasphemy,exultation and silences, triumph and defeat, this is the neighborhood: that which you are glad to remember from far away along with the face of "your" madonna " every time that at the crossroads of worlds a voice from Siena crossed paths with your own, and a sincere hand was held out to you: "But you, tell me" Which Contrada are you from?" (1960) |
| RISORGIMENTO | Massimo D'Azeglio (patriot) The Contrada of the Goose won, and seeing as how it has our colors, there was general jubilation. They wanted to name me one of the protectors of the Contrada, using this as an excuse for putting on a demonstration of the flag. (1858) |
| RITO (RITE) |
Mario Verdone (writer) Ceremonies and civic events, births, funerals are constantly accompanied by the presence of the Contrada's page at least, if not by more copious representation in full costume, as a perennial sign of identification of the Palio with the very life of the city and its inhabitants, in each of their solemn moments. (1986) Faiza Mahari |
| SACRO E PROFANO (SACRED AND PROFANE) |
William Heywood (historian) This, dear reader, is the Palio. And going over again its curious mixture of religious rites and of purely profane enthusiasm, we do well not only to remember its origins, but also to keep in mind the fact that, in the words of a modern historian, Italy is, more than any other country, the homeland of human nature simple, imperturbable even in the presence of its Creator. (1899) Indro Montanelli (journalist, essayist) Aldo Cairola (art historian) |
| SAGRE (FEASTS) |
Roberto Barzanti (historian) |
| SCIABORDITO (DISCOMBOBULATED) |
Alberto Comucci (writer) |
| SCONFITTA (DEFEAT) |
Mario Celli (journalist Il Campo di Siena) |
| SCOSSO (RIDERLESS) |
Vasco Pratolini (writer) |
| SIGNIFICATO (SIGNIFICANCE) |
Aldous Huxley (essayist, writer) |
| SILENZIO (SILENCE) |
Gianni Tiberi (journalist for La Nazione) |
| SOGNO (DREAM) |
Margherita di Savoia (Queen of Italy to her Lady of Honor the Marchess of Villamarina) |
| SOLITUDINE (SOLITUDE) |
Giovanni Guiso (writer) |
| SORRISO (SMILE) |
Aldo Palazzeschi (writer) |
| SPENNACCHIERA (PLUME) |
Corrado Govoni (poet) |
| STORIA (HISTORY) |
Gabriella Piccinni (historian) |
| SUONO (SOUND) |
Luigi Bonelli - Felice Boghen (musicologists) Topographically the Campo is shell-shaped: thus it has the schematic form of an instrument. The palaces around it enclose it like a perfectly shaped sounding board "The repercussion of sounds and noises that vibrate simultaneously and without interruption in various points of the piazza seems to be increased and disciplined by this immense, vibrating, concave instrument, to the point of becoming a symphony" (1928) |
| TAMBURO (DRUM) |
Antonio Zazzeroni (writer) Alberto Giannini (Drummer in the Piazza from 1934 to 1945) Beating the drum is a great satisfaction to a Sienese because the drum marks the time of various occasions within the Contrada. I would say I had a rather natural inclincation for the drum, and I had the joy of playing it for thirteen different Contrade. When I made my first entrance into the Piazza with the drum, I was seized by a powerful emotion. I will always remember it as a special occasion in my life. (1998) |
| TEMPO (TIME) |
Luigi Testaferrata (journalist for Il Giornale) Marco Falorni (journalist for Il Cittadino) |
| TIFO (CHEERING) |
Walter Veltroni (Minister of Cultural Heritage) |
| TRIPUDIO (JUBILATION) |
Silvio Gigli (radio journalist for the RAI) |
| TURISMO (TOURISM) |
Carlo Cassola (writer) |
| UMORE (MOOD) |
Liz Harris (journalist for The New Yorker) |
| UTILITA' (USEFULNESS) |
Franco Cardini (historian) |
| VITTORIA (VICTORY) |
Beppe "Ciancone" Gentili (jockey) |