QUOTABLE QUOTATIONS

ALFIERE
(STANDARD-BEARER)
Arrigo Pecchioli (journalist, essayist)
And the Standard-Bearer is the wonder of the Contrade of Siena, for he mimes a dance of silk, repeats the swordfights of the ancient master defenders of the insignia from the 1600s, raises the flag in the air to the cheers or the jeers of the crowd, drapes his body in it… at the end he furls it and turns to hurl it, but with greater violence and boldness, into the sky (1974)

Enrico Toti (Standard-Bearer in the Piazza from 1962 to 1975)
In the Palio the Standard-Bearer has a privileged role. Indeed he translates strength, passion, identity, and the pride of belonging by means of the refined, silky arpeggio of his flag. (1998)

AMORE
(LOVE)
Piero Bargellini ((writer)
Love for one's Contrada does not take away from love for Siena; to the contrary, it makes it stronger. Beyond love for Siena, love for Italy as well. "I love Italy," a distinguished citizen told me with great seriousness, "because I love Siena, because I love my Contrada. The roots of my love reach deeper than do those of any other Italian." (1961)
AUTENTICITA'
(AUTHENTICITY)
Giuliano Catoni (historian)
The Palio continues to be experienced intensely because it has refused to fall into the pattern of "modern" festivals, all of which are born from the same unfailing original sin: namely, that of having been scripted by the authorities on high. (1982)
BANDIERA
(FLAG)

Pope John XXIII
Your flaming flags, your glorious and historical Palio, are symbols of perennial youth, of hearty discipline, of sincere patriotic love. (1959)

Alfredo "Ciappata" Donnini (Standard-Bearer in the Piazza from 1954 to 1962)
Being a Standard-Bearer is the most beautiful thing. You enter from the Casato with the colors of the Goose Contrada on your body and in your heart. You carry out one, two, three flag-waving routines with the terror of making a mistake" and with the confidence of being the best. Then all seventeen of you line up from San Martino's corner to the Casato for the last hurl. And there you give yet another great effort to throw the flag of the Paperone [the Goose] higher than all the rest, all the way to the turrets of the Palazzo, to touch the sky. And then you are happy. (Circa 1980)

Giancarlo Galardi (Standard Bearer in the Piazza from 1949-1958)
The flag" if I could I would have hurled it above the rooftops of Siena, so that everyone could see the purity of the colors that are the image of my contrada. (1998)

BATTAGLIA
(BATTLE)
Luigi Gianoli (journalist for La Gazzetta dello Sport)
They're off. Thus, I believe, do the devils gallop in hell: it's not a race, but a ferocious red-hot battle in the midst of a storm of whiplashes; the sharp curves do not break the flight, but seem to add pique and rancour. (1952)
BENEDIZIONE
(BLESSING)
Gaetano Bonicelli Bonicelli (Archbishop of Siena)
But how can you be amazed that in Siena the horses are blessed? Perhaps on the Feast of Saint Anthony in all the cities, in all the towns, the cows are not blessed? Maybe the priest never enters the stall, especially in certain rural areas? And in the churches, even the smallest animals are not to be blessed? (1996)

Renzo Cassigoli (journalist for L'Unità).
What a happy city is one that blesses not jockeys but horses. (1998)

CAMPANA
(BELL)
Sandro Scali (journalist for Il Carroccio).
The voice of the Sunto bell is great. The sound is that of a bell of war, harsh. The two tones are dark. From far away, only he is heard. After the last chime, the silence is loud. (1992)
CARRIERA
(THE RACE)
Augusto Mattioli (journalist for AGI)
The only true thing about the Palio is the few seconds of the race, in which reason gives way to instinct. (1998)
CAVALLO
(HORSE)
Marguerite Henry (writer)
Man seeks to set up everything, but the horse the horse knows only one law: that of winning! This is the most beautiful and most bitter lesson of the Palio. (1960)

Paola Fallaci (journalist for Oggi)
Having been to Siena to see whether or not they treat the animals cruelly, I decided to be reborn as a mare Yes, it's good to be reborn as mares. I say mares because the male horses are geldings, which is the only unpleasant trick that's played on them. (1986)

Umberto Eco (semiotician)
For which we honor the image of Hermes that adorns the floor of the Catherdral of this noble city. But against his seduction let us remember that, if one must run in the Palio, a horse is a horse is a horse. (1992)

Luca Luchini (journalist, essayist)
But those who speak ill of the Palio and of the Sienese, what do they know about how a horse might feel as it parades along the yellow earth in the Piazza before thousands of spectators, or about the joy that can be felt when the tears of Contrada members are mixed with one's own sweat?

Roberto Morrocchi (journalist)
The horse is the true protagonist of the Palio. A hero without flaw, loved, pampered, desired, cried over. Guardian of the Contrada member's dreams: the horse runs for him with all its strength and courage, braving the perils of a track that is at once magical and unyielding. The horse never sells out, never feels fear, makes no calculations. It never lets its hoof be held by all-too-human feelings. The horse alone may enter by right into myth, into legend. Side by side with the horse go the memories of triumph, the disappointments of a scorching defeat (1998)

COMPLESSO
(A COMPLEX)
Ezra Pound (poet)
And down there they've had their Palio.Let's not descend to this Calvary, said the priest - upon the damnably hard bench awaiting the horses - and the parade and the Carroccio wagon and the game of the flags - the waving of the flags of the Palio - It's not a ‘ontrada, it's a complex - explained an expert to one less expert - making reference to what was left of the guilds or the arts - (1937)
CONFEDERAZIONE
(CONFEDERATION)
Giulio Pepi (essayist, journalist)
to have a precise vision of Siena, we would do well to make clear that we are dealing not so much with a city as with a confederation of seventeen cities. And this is so true that the territory is divided by boundaries established first by habit and then by a law of the State (1729) which had and which still has full legal value. (1974)
CONFINI
(BOUNDARIES)
Walter Tyndale (writer)
I had been in Siena for barely an hour when I witnessed a dispute over the question of whether our pensione stood in the Contrada of the Goose or in the Contrada of the Dragon. It was a true enigma, even more so when I realized that the lodgers who had their rooms in the Goose believed themselves much greater than those in the Dragon.
CONFLITTO
(CONFLICT)
Federico Fellini (director)
You people of Siena have a precious thing, and it's singular how in the conflict between the Contrade there lies your union. All the world is flaking away, but there you are with the aliveness of these rites and with your loyalty to the centuries. I believe you are the only example in Italy. There's a sort of mysterious cord between you and the Sienese of every other age. It's beautiful, very beautiful! (circa 1970)
CONTRADA Piero Misciatelli Misciattelli (essayist)
Siena lives for and thanks to its Contrade not only in the days of the Palio, but for the entire year. They perpetuate among the citizens customs and habits that are oustandingly communal. They reaffirm religious and civil ties. (1932)

Guido Piovene (essayist)
Attachment to the Contrada has got nothing to do with ideas, with political parties, with personal interests. It depends exclusively on the place of birth, on ancestry, on everything before birth; it is not thought, but passion agreed to by simple entry into the world. The man from Siena feels for his Contrada more deeply than for anything else that which was called “the demon of belonging.”

Judith Hook (historian)
The Palio is essential to the life of the Contrade. The Contrade in turn are essential to the life of Siena. The Palio, the Contrade, and Siena thus constitute a virtually interdependent trinity. (1979)

Daniele Magrini (journalist, essayist)In a world in which interpersonal relationships become ever more difficult, in a society in which myths and certainties fall down one by one, in Siena the Contrada remains. (1986)

CORSA
(THE RACE)
Paolo Cesarini (journalist, essayist)
Sell out! Come on, come on. Go, go, go. Give it to em. Whip ‘em, get its back straight. Tower, Tower, Torrina Benedetta Santa Caterina give strength to the Goose. God wants you to kill him at Saint Martin's Corner. Hold tight, hold tight damn it. Come on, go, whip em. Pass him, pass him. Sell-out assassin, he's holding back, look how he's holding back. Saint Antonio, do a grace and break the legs of the Snail. Great Giraffe. Mamma, mamma, it's the Forest, the Little Forest, the Great Forest. They're closing in on him, they're closing in on him; cowards, they threw him against the mattresses. The Shell is coming back, go Shell, you're in first, go Shell, keep them behind you with the whip, take it wide, stay on top, keep with it, keep with it, now come on. Madonnina protect him. Oh God he's going down, Oh God he's falling. Sell out. He threw himself off, he threw himself off the horse. I'll kill him. (1960)

Manuela Audisio (journalist for LaRepubblica)
a minute-and-a-half orgasm which lasts and has been prepared for a lifetime. Like feeling too hot under the covers. (1985)

Jean Pierre Clerc (journalist for Le Monde)
The horse race is an incredibly intense moment, experienced as such by the Sienese, none of whom would be elsewhere for all the gold in the world; a moment the intensity of which could not fail to excite even the coolest of foreigners, yet it lasts no longer than a flash of lightning (1987)

Duccio Balestracci Balestracci (historian)
Now the horses come out from the Great Entrance and they go to the starting rope: don't say anything, don't ask anything. It's the most terrible moment for anyone born here: respect it. They enter the starting area: watch and be quiet. They're off. Around you anything can happen. The Palio is this, too. Experience it, understand it, but don't try to be part of it yourself. You'd only manage to give life to parody: spare yourself and spare us. It's only a little more than a minute: now it's all finished. (1998)

Vincenzo Tessandori (journalist for La Stampa)
Three times around the Campo on an improvised track, wild cheering, the most intense minute and a half in the world lived by an agitated crowd. Man can only lose and the one who wins is the horse, for he can win even "scosso," riderless. And then, the horse is the Contrada. (1998)

DANARO
(MONEY)
Beatrice Schlag (journalist for Sports)
Where, outside of Siena, does a race exist in which hundreds of thousands of marks change hands while nothing is earned except honor? and where else, at the end of the day, can one lose a race in which one hasn't even participated? It's the toughest race in the world. (1987)
DONNA
(WOMAN)
Simonetta Losi (journalist for Il Carroccio)
Women within the Contrada: The other side of the flag. A different color, indispensable, which, stitched to the male component, forms a unique whole. Passion for the Contrada, visceral, has no gender. What's special, if anything, is the solicitousness for "our men" when they become protagonists of the ritual. Women in the background only for the Palio as a metaphor for war: always more present in the Palio and in the Contrada as a metaphor for life, even in managerial roles.

Maria Pia Corbelli (journalist for La voce del Campo)
Women have an important role also in the Palio, the inimitable Palio, an uplifting rite which brings back to the present the history of the Republic of Siena. Watching the past and present episodes in which women have been active participants, we see women Captains, Priors, and Jockeys parade by on the screen. Among them all we note, for the indispensability of her participation, Violante of Bavaria. (1998)

Maria Grazia Testi Botteghi (Prior of the Porcupine Contrada from 1990 to 1992)
As in social life, women in recent years have achieved equal opportunity even within the environment of the Contrada, an emblemtically fixed institution on the one hand but on the other hand dynamic and not at all cut off from our time. The Contrada has known how to appreciate women's abilities and gifts so much so that women have been assigned ever more important and prestigious tasks.

Sonia Corsi (journalist for Il Nuovo Campo)
Women and the Palio: a relationship in continual evolution and, though holding fast to the traditional notion that the Palio is a masculine festival, women and the Palio have a relationship in continual evolution. Though tradition dictates that our festival is dedicated to a woman even if it is made up of men, as time passes, the world of women has not been denied its own important space. (1998)

DOPOPALIO
(AFTER THE PALIO)
Guido Parigi (journalist for Il Nuovo Campo)
The Palio was getting close. In a long meeting my collaborators explained to me what was to be done and to whom the various facets of the four-day kirmess should be assigned. As for the after-Palio interviews, "No problem. I'll take care of them," Carlo Fontani said with certainty. He wasn't worried. The good Fontani was an excellent, seasoned, trusted journalist. But his Contrada won, and it was only a week later that I saw him. The interviews were never written. (1998)
DRAPPELLONE
(THE GREAT BANNER)
Renato Guttuso (painter of the Palio of August 1971)
In my opinion it is a classic popular picture, that is, made for the people, like the paintings on the wagons in my native Sicily: rest assured, I will do everything in the right way, but I'll take old habits away from people.

Corrado Cagli (painter of the Palio of August 1972)The Palio either in some ways becomes a painting, a representation of life, if only in allegorical form, or it becomes a kind of tapestry, an abstract and geometrical composition of symbols and references consecrated by tradition.

Cesare Olmastroni (painter of the Palio of July 1982)
Painting the Palio was a great thrill, which I had dreamed of ever since I was seven years old and I saw the race for the first time. Such a thrill I would wish for all painters. I've had the good fortune of meeting all the painters who have painted the Palio in the last twenty-five years (because I procured material for them on behalf of the Municipality of Siena), from Maccari to Guttuso, from Adami to Tadini. I saw all of them, as soon as they came to Siena to attend the festival, as they were moved by the fact of having made a people happy.Eduardo Arroyo (painter of the Palio of August 1991)
"I want to paint a Palio that will make the people happy."

FANTINO
(JOCKEY)
Aldo Mantovani (jockey)
For this Piazza you need three things: heart, liver [meaning, "courage"], and hocks. (circa 1930

Bino Sanminiatelli (writer)
The jockeys, armed with a riding crop of toughened bull tendons, are at the starting gate. They have the shirts and long trousers of convicts. From underneath their helmets appear sinister grins, coarse faces, all rips and patches. (1950)

Paolo Maccherini Maccherini (journalist for the RAI)
In the person of the jockey, active instrument of all passion and of all suffering, the Sienese unconsciously incarnate and recognize themselves, in the sometimes mortifying, other times uplifting, dimensions of the present that matters. (1998)

FAZIOSITA'
(SECTARIANISM)
Joseph Forsyth (educator)
The strongest tie between Italians is the coming together of hatred. Never had the Tuscans been unanimous except to hate the other Italian states; the Sienese always agreed with each other when it came to hating the other Tuscans; the citizens of Siena the Sienese provincials; and in the same city the same passion has found a way to split itself up among the various Contrade. (1802)

Giorgio Batini (journalist La Nazione)
Sectarianism and tolerance are starting up again.Sworn political adversaries hug each other in the Contrada, long-time non-believers donate gifts to the church, praying to the Madonna of Provenzano and to Mary of the Assumption, Patron of Siena. They would let themselves be torn to bits to win the Great Banner with the sacred image. (1966)

FAZZOLETTO Claude Lévi Strauss (anthropologist)
The neckerchief is the personal flag of the Sienese. (1977)
FOTOGRAFIA
(PHOTOGRAPHY)
Luca Betti  (publisher)
There are many beautiful photos to be seen of the Palio Almost none, however, helps us understand the true essence of the festival, almost as if one were to photograph a flower and expect to smell its fragrance.
FUOCO
(FIRE)
Gianni Brera (journalist, essayist)
Guardians of a dream realized from the fire on the hill that chose for itself a different maternal she-wolf, thus do the Sienese share hate and love like bread and bile.
Meanwhile our blind Mistress history makes us run the Palio among Contrade ever more hostile and far apart. (1969)
GARA
(COMPETITION)
Leonardo Olmi (photojournalist for Playboy)
A competition that is unique in the world and unrepeatable in any other place or city that isn’t the ring of tuff earth around the shell of Siena’s Piazza del Campo. (1998)
GIOCOSITA'
(PLAYFULNESS)
Emilio Giannelli (designer) 
The Palio today has been somewhat dramatized, especially by the young generation. Today friendy teasing is mistaken for provocation and often gives rise to violence. In my opinion everything should be steered back to the playfulness which little by little, in time, has disappeared. (1996)
GIORNALISTI
(JOURNALISTS)
Aligi Cioni (journalist for ANSA)
The Sienese are, on average, cultured, touchy, ironical. Journalists (non-Sienese, I mean) leave them neither hot nor cold; they are "foreigners." Let them fend for themselves. No red carpets and, thus, the rule for everyone is: You want to report on the Palio? Try to understand it, do your homework, study. Come before it begins, sniff the air of the festival in the Contrade" Then, maybe, you might manage to report on it, the great race, the drums, the procession, the colors, the continuous cry that goes with the three long, long laps around the Piazza del Campo. (1998)
GIUSTIZIA
(PALIO JUSTICE)
Gianni Roggini (journalist)           
It's rare for measures decided upon by the Municipality concerning the Contrade and the jockeys to be accepted calmly. But it's rarer still for someone to get the idea of taking the problem elsewhere, for example by appealing to the TAR [Regional Administrative Court]. The great majority of Contrada members think that suffering a possible injustice at the hands of the Municipality of Siena is always better than receiving questionable justice from the Florentine courts. (1998)
GUERRA
(WAR)
Tonino Virone (journalist Testimonianze)
In 1946 J. Huizinga in his Homo ludens expressed a quantity of facts so weighty as to make one take into serious consideration the notion that play and not work was the primary deciding element in human cultural background....
And it is exactly this that happens between the Contrade throughout the year and during the days of the Palio. They "simulate" war and, by so doing, in reality achieve social peace. (1990)
IMMAGINAZIONE
(IMAGINATION)
Omar Calabrese (semiologist)
"One often arrives in Siena with the spirit of the ethnologist who comes to study, without wanting to admit it, a primitive people, a population of wild men, a people of anachronistic fanatics. And then one finds oneself caught up instead in an extraordinary adventure of the imagination." (1986)

Enrico Campana (journalist for La Gazzetta dello Sport)
"Faithful to his script for a Pirandello-style race, in which reality is punctually superior to imagination." (1987)

LIBERTA'
(FREEDOM)
Titus Burckhardt (historian)
The Palio is the ultimate manifestation of the history of a proud, free city.
A. LORENZETTI Heinz Joachim Fischer (journalist for Frankfurter Allegemeine)
Palio, the Campo, and the festival seem in the end to conform to the spirit of Ambrogio Lorenzetti… The impressive scenes in the city and in the country, the allegorical figures, the churches and the palaces; everything follows the moral instruction, and indeed the principle expressed through works of art, that, for the good of the whole, private interest must be subordinated to the common interest. In the Palio this goal is pursued by the citizens themselves. (1990)
MADONNA Mino Maccari (painter of the Palio of August 1970)
"But the Madonna, how shall I do her? I've painted only women who are cheerful and covered with makeup. Perhaps I'll paint her like an angel at the last moment!"
MAGIA
(MAGIC)
Massimo Bilorsi (journalist, essayist)
In Siena, magic is quick to meet the Palio, a vital expression that allows neither hint nor reply, through formulas and rites that mark living side-by-side with the past, with comparisons. There's always someone who, to exorcise fate, lets himself be taken to secret places, drinks wine that's about to go off, only to be led then to the woods by a witch who seduces him. (1991)
MILANO
(MILAN)
Anna Mosca (writer)
Yet if, for example, we wished to recommend this recipe for peace in Milan, dividing that great city into so many sectors to turn its neighborhoods into good families in the style of Siena, the thing wouldn't work. The Palio would be missing. It would be missing. The spiritual hyperbole of the Sienese people (1967)
MISTERO
(MISTERY)
Roderick Conway Morris (journalist, International Herald Tribune)
What makes the Palio so gripping is the element of mystery that it hides, a mystery that perhaps not even the most thoughtful of the Sienese might ever explain completely. The Palio is man-made, it is a work of art, but a work made by many hands through many generations, each of which has added something, though the greater part of the contributions remains anonymous. And the ability of the Palio to adapt to changing times has been astonishing. (1998)
MONTAPERTI Idilio dell'Era (essayist)
For the Palio is nothing but a symbolic race through the history of one of the proudest republics that Italy ever had, a phantasmagorical flight of noise and costumes to rediscover youth, rich in art and faith, in enthusiasm and devotion anchored to the banks of the Arbia: at the end of the day it is nothing other than a spectacle of thanksgiving to the Madonna for the victory won over the Florentines at Montaperti on 4 September 1260. (1960)
MORTARETTO
(THE LITTLE CANNON)
Alfredo Bonaccorsi (musicologist)
The chimes stop at the beginning of the race when the Little Cannon explodes violently, filling the Piazza and all adjacent streets with echoes; afterwards there lingers an indistinct buzzing which, after so much clamor, gives the idea of silence, of a silence inundated by vibrations of anxiety, of dismay, stretching out towards the race… (1928)
MORTE
(DEATH)
Eugenio Montale (poet)
The stands groan when the dilapidated horses pass by, greeted by a single cry. It's a flight! And you forget. Forget death. (1939)
MOSSA
(THE START)
Sergio Profeti Profeti (journalist, essayist)
But the most illogical aspect of the illogical race is demonstrated in the Start. The Start assumes a diabolical meaning in the Palio, an altogether particular charm.
Only the passage of time knows how to create a spectacle within the spectacle, an illogic within the illogical. (1985)
MUSEO DI CONTRADA
(CONTRADA MUSEUM)
Mauro Civai (Director of the Civic Museum of Siena)
Siena boasts a national record for the number of museums found within its territory, thanks above all to the exceptional series of historic seats of the Contrade. The Contrada museum is very modern, where the memory of every aspect of the life of the Sienese "city state"is rigorously, yet affectionately, preserved and documented. (1998)
NERBATA
(WHIPLASHES)
Momo Giovannelli (vernacular poet)
But leave things as they used to be! / When there was less sentiment / but also less fiction and hypocrisy / By giving heed to the dandies / We'd run the Palio on compliments: / "Me, pass? But what are you saying? After you!!" (1968)
NOSTALGIA Geno Pampaloni (writter)
Religious devotion and warlike bravery are the components of the civic spirit, which was the root and the nourishment of the Contrada. The Palio today is the symbolic transposition of all this. The fury of passions which still blazes around the Piazza when there's earth in the Piazza is itself another manifestation of Siena's nostalgia for its past as a free and bold City-State. (1986)
OLIMPIADI
(THE OLYMPICS)
Paolo Vagheggi (journalist for La Repubblica))                       
"The important thing is winning the Palio. Yes, because the Palio is either won or lost. At the Palio, you don't come in second or third. The Palio is the Anti-Olympics. Winning, not participating, is the important thing."
PALCAIOLI
(OWNERS OF THE STAND)
E.A.Brigidi (historian)                     
Out come the cries "To the good seats! Here they are! Here they are!" from the owners of the stands who invite the spectators, each boasting his own good position, and packing the crowd in like sardines in a jar. (1875)
PALIO Henry James (writer)                                
The great rumbling magnificent race or animated entertainment, that simulates ferocity even if real ferocity is never reached, that is the annual pride of the city. (1909)

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (writer)  
"The Palio is a diamond fist to hold up against any of Italy's enemies." (circa 1930)

Tommaso Landolfi (writer)
Here the city walls seem cut from some precious material; scorched and brilliant The fates hand themselves over to the Palio, and the Palio marks, for whoever is full of heart, an era of the soul. (1939)

Giovanni Cecchini (historian)
This mixture of official characters and popularism has given to the Palio its special imprint that has lasted over the centuries and throughout political upheavals, penetrating into the popular mindset so much so that it is impossible to think of Siena without thinking of the Palio, or of the Palio without thinking of Siena. (1958)

Mario Ismaele Castellano (Archbishop of Siena)                                             
Telling the Sienese not to take part in the Palio is like telling fish not to live in the sea. (1991)

Stefano Bisi (jouralist for Il Corriere di Siena)                       
The Palio is three minutes with your heart in your throat, four days of breathlessness, a lifetime of breathing in rich lungfuls. (1998)

Yoeri Albrecht (journalist for Vrij Nederland)                       
The Palio only lasts for 90 seconds, but they are the most exciting seconds that can be lived in all of Europe. The Palio is both allegory and reality. It has remained true to itself, adapting to time during the past centuries, which is why it has not become an artificial folk event. The race is the flower of the social organism of Siena's Contrade. A race in which almost everything is allowed, but the result is determined by Fortune. (1998

Mario Luzi (poet)                                             
The Palio is the Palio. No sociological, historical, or anthropological interpretation could ever explain it. Both the sumblimation and the damnation of fate in every single Sienese and in his citizenship. Burning stake of Siena-ness, in any case the incomparable proof of that trait. (1998)

PARADOSSO
(PARADOX)
Emilio Ravel (journalist)             
Whoever might wish to "see" the Palio for real must do so also through the eyes of paradox and mystery. Otherwise the essence and the deepest heartbeat are lost. (1997)
POPOLO
(THE PEOPLE)
Giuseppe La Farina (man of letters)                       
In Siena the people are not, as in almost all other parts of Italy, spectators of the festival; rather they are its leading actors. (1842)

Geraldo Righi Parenti (writer)                                             
The Palio is the grandiose, magnificent poem of this Siena, and it is the very soul of its people. (1926)

PIAZZA Augusto Mazzini (architect)                                             
From inside the piazza, because of the consistency of its spacial quality, the size of the city appears unknown. It may be immense or indeed non-existent. But above all else behind the Palace, even because of the relationship between that building and the sky, one senses the expanse of a great emptiness. The country is perceived as a vacuum, to which the city, with its Palace, turns its back. (1989)

Franco Fortini (poet, essayist)                                             
In the Piazza there is something like an emphasis: but not in the order of the grandiose. It's hard to define. Something similar can be found perhaps in Venice, in certain unexpected expanses. It's a sort of warning. It is one of the aspects of Siena that could be called religious. (1989)

Carlo Nepi (architect)                                             
But the imagination goes beyond and transforms this space into a gigantic theater, the stage all around, with the audience in the center and along the sides those who attend their own festival, their own performance; and then the earth, hidden beneath the stone skin, re-emerges and unveils the "naturalness" of the place that becomes the theater of the animal struggle, of the race of horses and men. (1998)

PITTURA
(PAINTING)
Bruno Santi (Superintendent of Artistic and Historical Heritage)                                             
How to reconcile the formal dignity, the balance, and the composure of the composition of the paintings of the high Italian Renaissance with the lights and color and movement in the dynamism of Futurism at the beginning of the 1900s? No spectator at the Palio of Siena can help but reconstruct in his memory a vast temporal arc of our country's figurative art, immersing himself in the images offered by the Festival. (1998)
PROVE
(TRIAL RUNS)
Senio Sensi (journalist for Il Carroccio)                                             
You follow the horse with a mixture of pride, of ostentation, of power, and of service that carries with it some risk. It is only after having marched and battled for your Contrada that you feel you truly belong to it. (1990)
RIONE
(NEIGHBORHOOD)
Aldo Lusini (historian)                   
With incense and blasphemy,exultation and silences, triumph and defeat, this is the neighborhood: that which you are glad to remember from far away along with the face of "your" madonna " every time that at the crossroads of worlds a voice from Siena crossed paths with your own, and a sincere hand was held out to you: "But you, tell me" Which Contrada are you from?" (1960)
RISORGIMENTO Massimo D'Azeglio (patriot)                                            
The Contrada of the Goose won, and seeing as how it has our colors, there was general jubilation. They wanted to name me one of the protectors of the Contrada, using this as an excuse for putting on a demonstration of the flag. (1858)
RITO
(RITE)
Mario Verdone  (writer)                                            
Ceremonies and civic events, births, funerals are constantly accompanied by the presence of the Contrada's page at least, if not by more copious representation in full costume, as a perennial sign of identification of the Palio with the very life of the city and its inhabitants, in each of their solemn moments. (1986)

Faiza Mahari
The Palio is not a simple horse race, but the rite of a city, the culminating moment of a civilazation and a symbol " so very significant " of a republican military glory. (1989)

SACRO E PROFANO
(SACRED AND PROFANE)
William Heywood (historian)
This, dear reader, is the Palio. And going over again its curious mixture of religious rites and of purely profane enthusiasm, we do well not only to remember its origins, but also to keep in mind the fact that, in the words of a modern historian, Italy is, more than any other country, the homeland of human nature simple, imperturbable even in the presence of its Creator. (1899)

Indro Montanelli (journalist, essayist)
The race is not the ultimate act of the Palio, even if it is the most spectacular. What makes up the most interesting human side is its preparation. But unfortunately one needs to be Sienese, or at least Tuscan, to fully understand the mixture of the emotional and the rational, the passionate and the calculated, the sacred and the profane that inspires the various propiatory rites. (1974)

Aldo Cairola (art historian)
The relationship between "sacred" and "profane" is present in the Contrada from its very origins, and it finds particular expression in all parts of the Palio. (1981)

SAGRE
(FEASTS)

Roberto Barzanti (historian)
"Like any organism that lives off human blood, the Palio lends itself to no guidebook oversimplifications. Like any festival rooted in intrigue with a long and ancient history, the Palio maintains its combative significance, in no way commonplace. It calls for intelligence without rhetoric, it fears the banality of anecdote, it shies away from slogans that might reduce it to yet another invention, to yet another of the many mundane feasts in fancy dress that fill up the boot [the Italian peninsula]." (1972)

SCIABORDITO
(DISCOMBOBULATED)

Alberto Comucci (writer)
The Palio lifts and drags the people to delirium, fed by a storm of passions unleashed from their soul almost to the point, in certain moments, of churning its sense of reason, or, as they in Sienese, of making them "sciaborditi" ["discombobulated"]. (1926)

SCONFITTA
(DEFEAT)

Mario Celli (journalist Il Campo di Siena)
The Palio, though to the non-Sienese it may be and appear a spectacle (a spectacle of the crowd whose love and passion sweats in the burning struggle of the ten protagonists), is to the Sienese and to the Contrada members a matter of suffering, of enthusiasm or of disappointment. The Palio is not to be seen, but is to be suffered, and there is no joy more immense than triumph and no cup more bitter than that of defeat. (1974)

SCOSSO
(RIDERLESS)

Vasco Pratolini (writer)
"turning toward the track I saw a faraway red and black blur roll off and a horse with free bridle follow the panting cloud of other gallopers, suddenly made glad and light, freed, as it was, of its rider" (1939)

SIGNIFICATO
(SIGNIFICANCE)

Aldous Huxley (essayist, writer)
No, the Palio is really a performance; without any particular significance, but by the simple fact of being traditional yet vital, it signifies infinitely more than English events which are stillborn, with all their Parker-style free verse and their dramatic implications. For these pages, these soldiers, these standard-bearers are straight out of the age of Pinturicchio. (1925)

SILENZIO
(SILENCE)

Gianni Tiberi (journalist for La Nazione)
And then there's an instant in which sound stops. Waiting for the horses to come out through the Great Entrance, all those heads turned in unison toward the Palazzo Pubblico stand for its most intimate essence. The Palio as waiting, as hope. A glance toward the future, finding in the victories of the past the impetus and eagerness to win again. To understand the Palio, the race isn't necessary. (1998)

SOGNO
(DREAM)

Margherita di Savoia (Queen of Italy to her Lady of Honor the Marchess of Villamarina)
"The Palio is a vision of a poem by Ariosto made real!Oh, Marchess, it is like waking up from a dream of having lived a day in another era." (1861)

SOLITUDINE
(SOLITUDE)

Giovanni Guiso (writer)
In Siena, more than anywhere else, thanks to a subtle network of feelings, solitude is conquered more easily. It's not only a question of the city's size but of the quality of relationships that blossom in the genuine mixture of diverse social strata which, levelled by culture, live together in mutual respect, helped along by the everpresent spirit of Contrada membership. (1993)

SORRISO
(SMILE)

Aldo Palazzeschi (writer)
Shouts, rebukes, threats" intrigues, betrayals" a few lashes that fly and fall, the slightly dented skin of a jockey, perhaps a couple of drops of blood but a smile on everything, I thought the following day, after a scene of color more beautiful than any I had ever seen, while the train ran along, taking me far away from those city walls that some miracle has preserved for our eyes, and where the most outspoken speakers of Italian play at discord with such grace. (1926)

SPENNACCHIERA
(PLUME)

Corrado Govoni (poet)
And run, oh poetry
the finish line is already in sight:
run even with only the plume
of my betrayed springtime! (1953)

STORIA
(HISTORY)

Gabriella Piccinni (historian) 
The Sienese combine maximum attraction with maximum ignorance of their own history. It is the fruit, for example, only of the popular imagination that Siena had always been full of the indominable Ghibelline spirit, just like the myth that has grown up around the battle of Montaperti, great ephemeral victory for the Ghibelline Italians and for Siena. The Palio and Montaperti resemble each other: they are both memories of civic grandeur that found a foothold during the age of decline. (1998)

SUONO
(SOUND)

Luigi Bonelli - Felice Boghen (musicologists)

Topographically the Campo is shell-shaped: thus it has the schematic form of an instrument. The palaces around it enclose it like a perfectly shaped sounding board "The repercussion of sounds and noises that vibrate simultaneously and without interruption in various points of the piazza seems to be increased and disciplined by this immense, vibrating, concave instrument, to the point of becoming a symphony" (1928)

TAMBURO
(DRUM)

Antonio Zazzeroni (writer)
The art of playing the drum isn't taught at school. You play it if you love it, and love for the instrument is born and grows hand in hand with love for your Contrada. The classroom for your study is the street and the little square of your neighborhood. (1985)

Alberto Giannini (Drummer in the Piazza from 1934 to 1945)

Beating the drum is a great satisfaction to a Sienese because the drum marks the time of various occasions within the Contrada. I would say I had a rather natural inclincation for the drum, and I had the joy of playing it for thirteen different Contrade. When I made my first entrance into the Piazza with the drum, I was seized by a powerful emotion. I will always remember it as a special occasion in my life. (1998)

TEMPO
(TIME)

Luigi Testaferrata (journalist for Il Giornale)
"Being in Siena for those days is like being inside the quintessence of the world: as if you had taken the ideal ship and it had set out to circumnavigate all the experiences, adventures, risks, wild dares, exaltations, abstractions, sublimations, sinkings that have ever taken place in the history of man" (1986)

Marco Falorni (journalist for Il Cittadino)    
The Palio is one of those moments in which life is viewed as in a film. No technology, however sophisticated, could ever manage to concentrate in such few instants so great a legacy of memories, clear and wonderfully fused into the surrounding reality. In Siena, as everyone knows, life is measured in terms of Palios, and thus every Contrada member keeps his own personal memory "meter," from one victory to the next. (1998)

TIFO
(CHEERING)

Walter Veltroni (Minister of Cultural Heritage)
Go to Siena, let's go there together, there are many things to learn and there's a wonderful spectacle to see. But please, don't make waves. And don't cheer for Contrade that don't belong to us.(1995)

TRIPUDIO
(JUBILATION)

Silvio Gigli (radio journalist for the RAI)
Siena triumphs immortal in a jubilation of flags In this jubilation of banners and flags, Siena triumphs as always immortal. (circa 1970)

TURISMO
(TOURISM)

Carlo Cassola (writer)  
Undoubtedly the Palio of Siena has a life of its own: it's had no need of more or less self-interested endowments to keep it on its feet. This is different from the cases of the Palio of Ferrara, or of the Saracen Jousting in Arezzo, or of Football in Costume in Florence, or of other public displays revived and kept alive by the hope of tourist speculation. (1946)

UMORE
(MOOD)

Liz Harris (journalist for The New Yorker)
The mood, now that the day of the race had finally come, was positively kept in check; there were few chants and cheers and almost no aggression. You couldn't call it a calm atmosphere; rather it was like breathing in a mass numbness.

UTILITA'
(USEFULNESS)

Franco Cardini (historian)
But the worst lie is that the Palio is useless. Better to get rid of it altogether, this disagreeable category of the useful which has caused so much harm " and we see it every day " to the modern world. Useful why? Useful how? Useful to whom? The Palio is useless like art, like good cheer, like love, like eating well: if usefulness is synonymous with grey functionality and with profit for its own sake, then the Palio is certainly useless. (1988)

VITTORIA
(VICTORY)

Beppe "Ciancone" Gentili (jockey)
Nothing is like winning the Palio of Siena. You can’t say it with words. (1969)

                      
Andrea "Aceto" de Gortes (jockey)
Because in Siena there’s this strange habit that if you don’t win the Palio, you lose it. (circa 1980)                

SOURCES:

For each author, see the corresponding entry in the bibliography, with the following exceptions: Audisio, Calabrese, Campana, Cardini, Clerc, Fallaci, Fischer, Harris, Mahari, Schlag, Testaferrata, Virone: Comune di Siena 1991. Bonicelli, Gianelli: Magi 1996. Catoni, De Gortes, Gentili, Mantovani: Falassi - Catoni 1982. Barzanti, Fellini, Pope John XXIII, Marinetti, Savoia: Grassi 1972. Cagli, Guttuso, Maccari: Comune di Siena 1992. Gigli: Mugnai 1996. Brera, Cassola, Celli, Gianoli, Govoni, Montanelli, Palazzeschi, Pepi, Pratolini, Sanminiatelli: Pecchioli 1974. Bargellini, Cesarini, D’Azeglio, Landolfi, Mosca, Tyndale: Attilio Brilli. Siena una regina gotica. Città di Castello 1997. Forsyth: Attilio Brilli. Viaggiatori stranieri in terra di Siena. Roma 1986. Fortini, Mazzini. Spazio e società n.47-48, 1989. Veltroni: Habitat 5 (1995). Eco: Ermete e lo slittameno del senso. AA.VV. La cifra e l’immagine. Acts of the convention. Siena 1992. Zazzeroni: Il Carroccio 1 (1985). Scali: Il Carroccio 8 (1992). Sensi: Il Carroccio 6 (1990). Luchini: Il Carroccio 9 (1993) Guiso: Cultura e Università di Siena, Siena 1993. Personal communications to the author of the present work: Arroyo, Balestracci, Betti, Biliorsi, Bisi, Cioni, Civai, Ciappata, Corbelli, Corsi, Falorni, Galardi, Giannini. Lévi-Strauss, Losi, Luzi: Giulio Pepi, Il Valdimontone spiega per prima le sue banderie - La Nazione Siena 25 April 1998, Maccherini, Mattioli, Morris, Nepi, Olmastroni, Parigi, Piccinni, Roggini, Tessandori, Testi Botteghi, Toti, Tiberi.